Cao Bang bánh cuốn: rice rolls with a bowl of broth

The rice batter is spread thinly and steamed before the sheet is lifted and rolled. A pork filling is common, while some cooks add other ingredients. Taste a little broth before adding lime, pepper or chilli bamboo shoots so that you can notice the base flavour. Add condiments gradually; a generous spoonful can quickly change a mild bowl into a sharply seasoned one.

Ask whether the standard order contains minced pork, wood ear mushrooms, peanuts or pork sausage, and whether egg rolls are available separately. If ordering an egg, explain how thoroughly you want it cooked. A plain looking rice sheet does not establish that the filling or broth is vegetarian. Explain dietary restrictions before the cook starts, including ingredients used in the accompanying soup.

Start with one portion and ask about its size before adding extra rolls or eggs. A freshly steamed serving is best approached slowly because both the filling and broth can be very hot. Confirm the total order and price with the seller, particularly when accompaniments are added separately. Leave time to eat seated before a mountain road journey rather than rushing a hot bowl at departure.

From your seat, notice the rhythm of spreading batter, lifting a sheet and serving the next customer. Ask before taking a close photograph of the cook and keep clear of steam and the work surface. Choose a place where the food is handled carefully and dishes are clean. The interest lies in an ordinary local breakfast, without needing to identify a single supposedly definitive restaurant.